Now that we've got our cash, permits and plans in hand, let's start calling those sub-contractors. First off, we've got to get the pool dug so start with the excavators. By the plans, they should know where the pool needs to be, how far from the house and the surrounding fences. They'll set the elevation and start putting bender board at precisely where the pool will be. If there are no obstructions for the digger, you needn't be there the 4 to 10 hours it will take to dig except to give him the check . If you have some experience with a bobcat tractor and the pool is of basic design, you may be able to take charge of this and save $800 and more. That concludes the first phase.
Now we move to the next two phases, rough plumbing, electrical and steel or rebar (re-enforcing bar). This too is pretty basic and does not need your supervision except again for payment. Your average code requirements for rebar is 12 inches on center set up going in both directions (criss-cross). Here too, the set-up is simple with a simple designed pool and all you need is to be feeling a little macho to bend 1/2 inch steel. You could save a couple hundred dollars. Unless you know plunbing and electrical, leave this to an elecrtician and pool plumber and one who will also finish the job when it's time for the equipment hook-up. At this time when the rough electrical, plumbing and steel are complete, it's time to give your inspector a call for approval.
The gunite or concrete shell phase is probably the first phase that you should be there for. Make sure that you ask the foreman as to the mix they plan to shoot your pool with to be sure that you are getting what you're paying for, per agreement. The usual mix is a 5 sack mix . A 6 sack mix is a bit stronger and better in the long run but you will pay more for this ( about $200 and up depending on the pool size). Other things of concern would be to be sure that loveseats and steps are placed and shaped the way you wanted. Starting the following day, wet the gunite thoroughly about 2 to 3 times a day for about 2 weeks to slow down the curing process. The longer cement takes to fully cure the stronger it becomes.
Hopefully inspection went well and now we can call your plasterers for the final phase. Since I believe that this is the most important phase of the project because it's what could make or break the looks of your pool, you need to be sure to hire a reputable company or crew. A bad plaster finish may cause algae growth to accelerate and create a vicious cycle of over chemicalizing your pool which in turn causes a breakdown of the plaster finish. A bad plaster finish may also cause aggravated conditions on your skin, particularly those parts that come in contact with the plaster, i.e.,hands and feet. However, it is not unusual for childrens feet to become tender and slightly bloodied even from a good plaster job. This is a result of prolonged periods in the water and the dragging of the feet on the plaster surface.
Now we move into the homestretch with tile, coping and decking. Installation of coping is best done by a professional unless you have experience in the use of a transit. If you have hired a profesional to do the coping then with even basic skills in tiling, you could save a few hundred dollars on this installation. You need only to make sure that the mortar base is approximately 1/4 inch in order to apply the proper amount of plaster. Check and mark your water level for your tile work before you start. No more than 1/2 inch difference at the farthest points is acceptable. Never install tile with thinset directly to the gunite. This will result in a thin layer of plaster at these points.
It is recommended to have some kind of skid-resistant finish on the concrete around the pool. With this phase complete, let's put your inspector to work again for a pre-plaster inspection.
